Jan 28, 2009

Hiking -Kumano Kodo

Hiking is an interesting outdoor activity in Japan. Though initially we were reluctant, soon we were hiking wherever possible; we find most of the trails hiker-friendly even for beginners. Mt.Shosha, Mt.Takamikura, Tendaki Falls, Kinosaki, Misasa, Suma Alps and Mt.Rokko are the places we hiked with a group of friends or as a family.

The latest one we had done -in a group of 37 friends- was Kumano Kodo Ancient Pilgrimage Route. This refers to a trail on the mountains -"the Ancient Pilgrimage Route"- that people have been walking 'over a thousand years' as a pilgrimage to visit the holy shrines located in several parts of the mountains. What is special about this trail is that it is recognized as a World Heritage spot by UNESCO. (http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/index.html )

On a very cold day (Dec-27, 08) we left Befu at 6 am in a rented bus for Kumano Kodo, and after a short break for breakfast near Wakayama, reached the start-point of the trail at Hosshinmon-Oji at about 11 am. We intended to cover the most popular sector between Hosshinmon-Oji and Kumano Hongu Taisha, which was an 8 km long trail. Hosshinmon-Oji has hardly 50 homes, and many homes have a small 'shop' -a 'counter' in front of their doors in which oranges, 'kaki's (persimmon), chestnuts and some vegetables are displayed for sale, with a price tag on them. If you want to buy, you take the merchandise, and leave the money at the box kept there. There is no shopkeeper!

The entire trail was on the mountains. At places the route bifurcates into two, where the only way to know the right route is make an 'educated guess' -as we find the Japanese characters written on the directions difficult to read, and on that day, there weren't many to ask for directions (But then, that's how all the hiking trails are!). As in any hiking trail, we saw many Japanese old couple walking actively on the route. A young man who said he is from Tokyo did not find the trail even a bit adventurous! A Japanese lady stopped by and asked us if everything was OK, and if we needed any help/directions.

The hiking was not tedious, as it was a safe 8km walk through the mountains. No steep uphills or crawling on rocks; fairly smooth but narrow natural trail. Walking on the trail that had both the sides covered with tall cedar trees was...Great!

By the time we reached Kumano Hongu Taisha (shrine), it was 2 pm. After spending some time in the shrine, our bus proceeded to Totsukawa Tanise bridge, which is the longest wire-rope bridge built across & connecting two mountains. It was thrilling as the bridge sways even as we walk across it! It is a 1m wide, 300m long footbridge built about 55m height (approx.) from the surface of the underneath river.

No outing gets completed without a hot spring bath! We did go to the remotely located Totsukawa hot spring, had a good time there as it was the first onsen-visit for many of our friends. It was 10:30 pm when we returned home......



















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